The Peace Corps Family

Hello Everyone,
I had just about given up on posting any more entries due to the sheer frustration of connectivity and the ability to upload but this story needs to be told.

There are many reasons to join the Peace Corps and plenty of reasons not to but this past week I have experienced first hand one of the better sides of a Peace Corps service and that is the Peace Corps family. You may hear people say this and think it sounds super cheesy but let me tell you; this past week I have experienced an extended family, that I never knew, in a way I can't vocalize my appreciation for enough.

I was supposed to be on "vacation" in Namibia this past week. My vacation quickly turned nightmare when I was robbed my first day in the country and left without a shred of identification or money (I am alright). Let me tell you trying to get one without the other is IMPOSSIBLE! Luckily I am a PCV which means I am not alone. Not even close to it.

I called a PCV in Zambia to get the Namibia number (since that emergency info was now gone also). On the other end of the duty phone was a super supportive voice who quickly dropped his weekend plans, picked me up, and started to help me put together the pieces. My pass through of Windhoek has become a week long mess of paperwork and shoestring budgeting. Thankfully for the PC staff and volunteers of Namibia they have helped me to not only sort out the mess of money and ID but they have helped me salvage a bit of vacation in the process.

I cannot express the outpouring of support I've received from both staff and PCVs alike. People I have never met before have offered to give me money, have fed me, have housed me, and have spent numerous hours in offices helping me recover/complete various paperwork or funds. When I was so close to finally getting a replacement passport I was told I needed $135 USD! I didn't have that much in Namibian dollars let alone US dollars. Every step of the way there seemed to be a hiccup, but one of the US staff members loaned me the cash and when we discussed how to repay the only thing she asked was that I pay it forward one day when I have the opportunity to do so. You better believe I will.

I might not have gotten to skydive over the desert or kayak with the seals or enjoy any of the planned activities but what I did get to see was an inside look at Namibia from the gracious homes of PCVs. I didn't get to shop the vast craft markets and bring home all the loot I wanted but the couple pieces I was able to get (after getting some cash from home, which was it's own headache) I bought from groups that PCVs work directly with and I know exactly what went into each piece. To me this is far more valuable than having a bunch of junk that is potentially made in China or India anyway! Quality over quantity.

I got to have an impromptu dinner with 6 other Namibian PCVs over homemade burritos, wine, and cake while watching the sunset over a lake. I've been able to learn about other PCV projects here and look at what they are doing in their communities and learn a lot about the culture of Namibia that I otherwise might've missed.

So, while losing everything is no fun (do be vigilant when traveling), I have had such an outpouring of support from this extended family that I call Peace Corps. If you are contemplating joining PC and not sure about leaving friends and family in the States behind I can only say to you, you are missing out on a wonderful large family abroad. Bad things may happen, life happens! But with the support of family I am still smiling at all the warmth (literally!) and beauty that Namibia has to offer.

No names have been mentioned but if you read this you know who you are and I am forever grateful for everything each one of you did for me in my time of need.

Village Portraits

Ba Joshua

Ba Careen

Ba Joyce

Ba Elvis

 Ba Priscilla

Ba Careen

Ba Elias aka Bataata

Ba Misheck

Ba Calvin

Ba Maggie

Ba Matilda

Ba Joshua

Ba Henry

Mid-Service Update

It's midterms, which marks the official half way point of my service. I've been notoriously bad at blogging due to a mixture of factors including lack of service to post, being too busy with programs, and just being too tired and worn out to write sometimes. There is also the fact that those things that once seemed novel have become so very commonplace. Carrying water on my head once felt like an accomplishment; now it's just part of the routine of life. Teaching was at first novel and challenging but my class and I have fallen into a groove and now it is just work.

Life isn't easy but it has ceased being hard. I've figured out some life hacks to make my existence here a bit easier, like boiling water the night before on leftover dinner coals and storing it in a thermos to keep from having to start a fire in the morning. Even the things that I recall being so miserable when I first came such as public transport don't feel that bad anymore.

I suppose you could say I've settled in. In fact you could potentially say I'm thriving. I love my village and feel so at home there. I hate the bomas where I am viewed as a white person with money but in my village I'm just another villager. And while that doesn't stop people from asking for things it certainly changes the dynamic. For instance I don't mind being the village shoe repair woman with my gorilla glue.

Yes, a year has changed a lot of things like the fact that I let some spiders live in my house with me and actually can squish the others. A year of village living has taught me patience and resourcefulness, it has highlighted my strengths AND my weaknesses. I have learned that there is always a silver lining, if you look in the right place. The past year has confirmed what I always knew as a universal truth; life isn't fair. It has made me realize how much I miss cheese, sour cream, and ice cream. I have learned that it is always hotter before it rains but that the rain will come, and it will bring with it blissful moisture. I've learned a whole new set of "bush skills" and a language I can't use anywhere else in the world. I have learned how to make friends anywhere and that a smile is universal. I have experienced true loneliness, missed family and friends, and then picked myself up and carried on. I've learned that positive change starts small and youth really are the future. I've learned that I can, in fact, bathe with only a kettle of water. I have realized how many conveniences that I formerly took for granted, and yet only slightly miss. I've gone from newbie to expert. Yes, a year will change a person.

Peace Corps is almost like some sort of bizarre social experiment. We remove ourselves from everything familiar and comfortable and trade it in for a mud hut and millions of developmental headaches, only the strong survive. We challenge ourselves to new levels of "who am I?" since all of our past societal factors have been removed from the question and it's just the village and you. You have good days and bad. Projects flourish and the fail. Counterparts come and go. People come and go. And there you are just trying to make some sort of difference no matter how small.

Existence out here is sometimes bizarre, often humorous (if you can laugh at yourself), and 100% unpredictable. And that's what gets me out of bed each day. It's been a year in Luapula and I dare say I'm enjoying my little village.

So here's to a year! And a very merry one to come!

 One year in Zambia

Well I'm a month late but on African time it's better late than never!

My airplane touched down and I stepped foot on Zambian soil for the first time over a year ago. My oh my, how life has changed since then. To truly summarize how much would be next to impossible but let me give you a glimpse.

1. Home is now characterized by a 4 room mud brick and thatch roof hut.  In America I lived in a 6 room Victorian home complete with plumbing and electric.

2. My village is about 5 kilometers long and lines the tarmac (road) while approx 600 people live here. In America my city of residence holds just under 440,000 people in a 5,517 square kilometer area.

3. Monday-Friday I teach English to 30 grade six pupils. I also run various clubs throughout the week addressing HIV/AIDS, life skills, and literacy. In America I spent Monday- Friday working in an office in middle management.

4. I don't mind the 7 minute walk and hour of washing dishes in a river. In America I hated having to load and unload a dishwasher!

5. I've come to terms with my arachnophobia and even let the giant wall spiders live in my house now. In America I couldn't kill a tiny house spider.

6. I go to bed no later than 8 most nights and typically crawl into bed to escape the mosquitoes and other creepy crawlies by 7pm. In America I routinely stayed up until 10-12 doing things.

7. I say hello more times a day than I can count since greeting is a big part of the culture here. In America I only had to greet a person once.

8. My yard is the hangout spot for village kids and I even built them a tree swing. In America I was not at all a "kid person."

9. If I want to eat I have to start a fire and cook a meal. In America I ate so much fast and prepackaged food.

10. I make $200 a month and live comfortably. In America I made 40k a year and struggled to pay bills.

11. To get somewhere I either have to hitch a ride with a random vehicle or ride a bicycle. In America I could hop into my car and drive anywhere I needed.

12. I routinely reuse or burn my trash here. In America I hauled it to the curb weekly to pile up in a landfill.

13. My primary form of entertainment is reading. In America I hardly ever read for pleasure, preferring TV or socializing during down time.

14. I now stumble my way through an awkward mix of English and Bemba to attempt to communicate with neighbors. In America I could just download an app to translate anything foreign.

15. I've learned how to slow down a bit here and take time to "smell the roses." In America everything was far too fast paced to divert from a schedule.

16. Here I see other non-African people maybe once a month, and the site of an unfamiliar one sparks heightened interest. In America I was one of many white folk.

17. I can't walk around a Boma (town) here without being harassed. In America I could show up naked to a bar full of drunks and receive less attention (not actually a tested statement).

18. Here time is finite since I know my service will come to a close and so I try to plan projects to fit them into each season before I leave. In America I never had to think about time in the same way.

19. I enjoy so much nature and wildlife here. In America we have killed off many bugs and creatures in our city life.

20. Almost every morning I start the day by having a devotional time. In America I was always on the go and seldom made time for myself.

Life here is so different in many ways but the simplicity of life in the bush is refreshing. I have learned so many important lessons in this last year and witnessed the night and day differences of a developing nation compared to an established one. I'm sure that in the coming year I will continue to grow and learn and see the world with ever changing eyes. But for now I am, and will forever be, eternally grateful for this experience, for all the good days and the bad. I wouldn't trade my time in the village for the most luxurious life on the planet. Here's to one more year of goats bleating, babies crying, children learning, mothers smiling, walking through tall grass on dirt paths, and loving life.

Zam Travel

Oh the places you'll go!
That is if you have an abundance of time, no sense of smell, and don't mind being canned like a sardine in a sorta seat.

23 in a minibus

Welcome to Zambian travel my friends.
The norm here is hitch hiking which isn't exactly like it sounds. Hitching usually implies a free ride and I seldom get those. But if you want to catch a ride in the middle of the bush you stand on a road and wave your arm/hand until someone stops. Sometimes it's a bus, other times it's a private vehicle, and occasionally they are big rigs (though I don't flag those). They stop, you tell them a destination, they tell you to get in, you ask for a price, they say don't worry about it (this is a trick, always negotiate before), you agree on a price that is usually half of what they asked for originally, people and bags are shifted to make room where there is none, and you cram yourself into that space hoping the door will shut or if it's a bus you cram in hoping there is actually a seat, and then you are off- that is until the next person waving down a ride. The process continues on as people (inevitably the ones in the back corner) get off and others get on until you finally reach your destination. Rides range from a truck bed to a leather seat with a seat belt, its all in the luck of the day.

An average ride to Mansa, the provincial capital, takes me about an hour and a half on a good day. I go at least once a month to get money from the atm and groceries when we get paid. From Mansa you can get to Lusaka by way of a charter bus that charges 150 kwacha for the 13-15 hour ride (if you don't break down). These bus rides are dreaded and cram you into a seat that even the tiniest of human could not comfortably fit all the while blaring Zampop or more often Bemba worship songs. The worst part is I can sing along now. You would think that means I've ridden the bus too much which is only partly true; it's more a matter of the fact that the same cd gets played on repeat the entire trip. If you are lucky you will get a seat next to a reasonably sized Zambian who prefers to sleep. If fortune is not in your favor you end up with a half of a seat and a screaming baby in your lap while everyone's bags whack you in the head as they squish down the isle you are practically seated in. These buses make scheduled stops to load and unload passengers at major bomas/towns. They tell you they are leaving in 5 minutes, 20 minutes later everyone tries to frantically board the bus as it's pulling out.

On occasion I've had the pleasure of decent conversation with a fluent English speaking Zambian, though I've also experienced the displeasure of fluent drunk Zambians who like to point out that Obama is President and that I'm going to marry them and take them to America. The people you share very close quarters with for short to long rides rang from teachers & government workers, to farmers & children.

And then there is the cargo. I've sat on crates of bottles, I've had live chickens on my feet. I've seen more giant blankets and suitcases crammed into precarious places than I could ever wish for. Zambags (a large heavy duty reusable shopping bag) full of who-knows-what. Mini-buses crammed with bags of mealie meal (maize) and tute (cassava). 18-wheelers stacked high with Zambians balancing on their bags of charcoal to sell at the market. Bicycles heading to their new homes in the village. New farm tools like hoes & the occasional wheel barrow. The items transported here run the gammet!

I once got a hitch from a Zambian who had been to my hometown. When he asked what state I was from and I replied with Colorado he asked, "like Colorado Springs?" I turned my water bottle proudly displaying my Mountain Chalet sticker with Colorado Springs underlined and we both laughed at what a small world it is. Later he even proceeded to show me our new $100 bill! I thought it was monopoly money! When I asked what I owed him his sweet reply was; "how can I charge a sister that is teaching my people and speaking my language?" I didn't argue. We still keep in touch on Facebook.

People overcharge us the minute they see white skin not knowing that we live here and know the prices but we also get some pretty nice charity sometimes when people find out who we are and what we do. Zambians appreciate volunteers because they bring aid to the people but they are always particularly fascinated that we live in the bush with them for two years. This fact alone means that just about every car ride involves the same conversation. Come to think of it I should just record the questions and answers and hit play on my phone when I get into a new vehicle where they don't know me. It would save me a lot of brain power struggling to hear which question is next through the blaring music or wind howling through cracked windows all while deciphering the accent.

I've made it a common practice to wave at every vehicle that passes on the tarmac/road as I walk to school every day never knowing when one them might just be my next ride.
On the upside, flying economy from now on will be a luxury!

Tai Chi for bush living

Tai Chi is not merely a martial art practiced by those who subscribe to a dowist lifestyle, and it certainly isn't just exercise for the old guys at the YMCA. Tai Chi is a way of life. A way of commanding one's body toward health, relaxation, and a better quality of life and movement. Tai Chi is moving meditation. Sure the art form teaches self defense and can be a good workout but it is so much more. Everyone I know who has really given tai chi a chance has a story of self exploration, healing, or positive change.

Back in the states I would attend classes under the wonderful Shifu Michael Paler (if you are in Colorado Springs look up his school). Under Michael I learned so many amazing things and each week/class was a new realm of discovery. It was here in only a short 6 months I learned how to relax my body and orient my posture. I learned technique and form.I learned how much stronger and more flexible tendons and ligaments are than muscle. It was in class that I finally learned how to quiet my busy mind. It was in class I learned how to live and love more fully. Tai Chi taught me to appreciate my slightly overweight frame I had always struggled to love. It taught me to be thankful for my health and mobility.

When I moved to Zambia I had grand notions of practicing my newly found art form daily and continuing my journey on my own. Those hopes were quickly crushed with a tiring PST regiment for the first 3 months, followed by a hellishly hot season for the next 3 months in which I only wanted to press against the cool concrete floor. With the circumstances pushing me further and further from my original goal I was becoming a bit disappointed in myself and my lack of discipline. Occasionally, I slept wrong and my neck was a bit sore so I'd do some tai chi stretching to loosen things up and relieve the pain but I wasn't doing my normal 30 minute warm-up and form. Occasionally, I still chastised myself for not "practicing" more but I've come to realize that while I may not practice my tai chi I instead live it.

Every day both consciously and unconsciously I put into practice the many aspects of tai chi I worked so hard to learn. My form has changed from 24 count to the every move of daily living. Bush living is demanding. We are subsistence farmers, teachers with limited resources, health workers with no vehicles, skilled tradesmen with hand tools, we haul our water from a river, fight the earth to bring forth food, and spend the days making something from nothing. Ironically, because of this lifestyle these kids know what I had to relearn in my mid 20's- how to use your body. It sounds crazy and intuitive but it's not. Our western life has us hunched over keyboards, lounging on a couch, or working out with machines that aren't the best for our anatomy.

The women here carry large loads on their heads often without hands, and more commonly with a baby strapped to their backs. They are crazy strong and usually pretty skinny. The math doesn't seem to add up, unless you understand how to really use your body. In training PC cautioned us from carrying water on our heads because there have been too many neck injuries as a result. I've heard several PCVs tell me they don't carry heavy things on their head because their neck muscles aren't strong enough. Ironically, it has nothing to do with strength, it's all about posture. I take all the misaligned kinks out of my body and simply let gravity do the heavy lifting. I can carry loads on my head that I can't even lift to my head. It is so incredible how our anatomy really works. When you learn to relax all those tight muscles and let your tendons do the work it becomes almost effortless. I still can't balance the buckets of sloshing water like these incredible women but I have accomplished my goal of carrying things like a local. As an added bonus they still chuckle when I lift buckets up to my head to haul back from the river.

Carrying things on my head was the major goal I wanted to accomplish through use of tai chi but as I said before I find it's flowing into every aspect of my daily existence. When I swing my braiser I rotate from my hips instead of over extending my arm. I recently realized I can even practice being "pung" while pouring my kettle. I squat I-don't-know-how-many times per day, something that I couldn't have done for more than a few seconds back home. I find myself tensing up when dealing with frustrating people on buses but then I make a conscious effort to relax. I wish I could say that made travel tolerable, which is doesn't, but it does prevent me from the pain often associated with a long crammed bus ride.

I was worried when I came to Zambia about not having a chiropractor to see here but I've now gone the longest period in my adult life without chiropractic care and I've never felt better. The benefits of tai chi for both  body and mind are numerous and I can't imagine how much different my existence here in the bush might have been without this knowledge. While my experience back in the states was rejuvenating and even healing for some physical ailments, here it is just down right necessary.

The love of a child

There are many joys in this world but I never thought I'd say one of them was a child, or in this case many children. Tons of kids hang out at Ba Teeny's house but not all of them are "my kids." Only a select 6 of them get to call that privilege their own.

In my previous life I wasn't a kid person and while I still wouldn't say I am, these 6 kids have wormed their way deep into my heart to a place of love I didn't know was possible. These kids are what keep me smiling day after day. Yeah they drive me crazy sometimes but they can be a lot of help and are always good entertainment. I think sometimes people have the visual in their head of African children as sad, hungry, sickly children from the "sponsor a child" commercials but this couldn't be further from the truth. These little smiles and constant giggles and laughter are enough to melt even the coldest of hearts. Yeah they are dirty and sticky but once you get to know them their personalities override any mishap in their appearance.

These kids are on my porch first thing in the morning and last thing in the evening. I find myself calling out for them by name like a bamaayo to give them something or ask a question. These kids are so patient with my horrible bemba and will wait 5 minutes, continually repeating a word for me while I attempt to look it up. They bombard me with requests from dawn to dusk and yet somehow I don't mind too much. I've taught them to say please when they want something and answer my "what's up" with a "not-y much." They help me with yard work and were an excellent demolition crew this past week when we had to remove an old fallen roof.  They all look about 2-3 years younger than they are due to poor nutrition but they are clever and inventive kids.

Porch Dwellers

 

Joshua pushing Calvin on the swing.

Roof Demolition

Teen with Calvin, Maggie, Joshua

Elvis is the oldest and is in 4th grade. He regularly teaches me new bemba words and relays messages to the others when he understands. He is a huge help and the only one who doesn't tire out in two minutes when we are doing a project.  He has learned to throw a Frisbee quite well. He's also become my expert photographer and can operate the camera and phone camera, which is quite a feat here. You would be surprised how many Zambians can't get a clear photo. He's always looking out for the other kids and has a heart of gold.

                                                                         Elvis

Joyce is next in line and though only in 1st grade she has a very mothering and playful spirit. She loves to dance and will often ask me to play my bemba music, while she circles her hips with adult like expertise song after song. She likes to test her boundaries often and I tell her no more than any of the other kids, but I applaud her for not giving up.

                                                                         Joyce

Calvin is not yet in school but he is a sharp kid and picks up on things quickly. He is so sweet and loves to high five and snuggle. He's very independent even at such a young age and can often be found caring for his younger sister, Maggie.

                                                                       Calvin

Joshua has the biggest toothless grin you will ever see and I'd challenge you not to smile when he flashes it. Probably the most photogenic of my kiddos, the lens loves him.  He is energetic yet very observant. He is sometimes the only one on my porch and can found just watching the world around him in silent awe and bliss.

                                                                 Teen and Joshua

Maggie was very shy at first but has warmed up to me and can be heard repeating "Ba Teeny" as she runs to the house with a grin on her face. She loves sweeties and never hesitates to ask for them even though she knows she's not supposed to. She loves to giggle and follow the older kids around.

                                                               Calvin and Maggie

Baby Beverly has just started walking and might be the only Zambian baby to not cry at my presence. Every time she passes by on her mother's back and isn't fast asleep I always receive a large grin and wave of her tiny hand. Sometimes she accompanies her older sister over to my house with the rest of the kids and watches them play from the shade of the porch.

These are my 6 porch dwellers as I fondly call them. My ewes, my kiddos, and definitely my buddies.  I built them a tree swing and taught them how to play war and throw a Frisbee. We sing, laugh, and dance together. When I come back from a trip I can almost always rely on their little feet carrying them as fast as they can down the path to greet me with hugs and carry any bag light enough. A sight that always warms my heart.

This morning I received news that the family comprising of Elvis, Joyce, Joshua, and Beverly are moving. The news crushed my spirit in a way completely unexpected. I've never really loved kids before so I couldn't explain the tears filling my eyes and the sorrow filling my heart. The thought of not having them around is almost overbearing. I spent the whole morning with tears constantly welling up as I tried to imagine life without their presence. Luckily, Calvin and Maggie will still be around but it won't be the same. Often times these kids make me forget I am in a foreign land and this coupled with the fact that some of my best adult friends in the village have moved away just serves to remind me of how lonely this place can really be.

The love these kids show me day in and day out is almost unconditional. Even if I'm having a bad day and am harsh with them they will be back first chance possible. I think Calvin sensed my sadness when I heard about the other kids leaving and with great intuition, that evening,  he gently gave me a kiss before saying goodnight and running off. Never before have I had a desire to want to know the love a child can give but these little guys have shown me what it really means to love with all your heart. I think the beauty of their ability to display love so freely lies in their innocence. They,  unlike adults, don't focus on the color of my skin but rather on who I am to them. I still don't want kids of my own right now but at least I feel like if it were to happen one day it might not be worst fate. And hopefully I can take a page from their book and love with a little more blind faith.

Packing Suggestions

Its that time of year again where the newest batch of health and education volunteers are frantically trying to decide what makes the cut for the two bag limit for the next two years of their life. It's a daunting task but I hope to offer some insights below to ease those worrying minds. There were a lot of things that many of us wish we had known while packing, so hopefully this will remove some of the mystery.

This post is lengthy and based upon my opinion and experiences but hopefully it will help. My ultimate advice is if you have little luxuries you don't want to live without, bring it.

For the sake of below I have rated things as:
*Highly Recommend*
*Recommend*
*Not Necessary*
*Save your space*

Gear:

• Tent- The prov houses sometimes have tents you can borrow but I have used mine extensively including setting it up on top of my mattress in place of a mosquito net during PST. *Recommend*
• Sleeping bag- I have used mine but Peace Corps gives you a decent blanket when you start training. *Not necessary*
• Sleeping mat- Many people who didn't have them during training spent some hard nights on the ground. A basic foam one can double as a yoga mat or sitting pad. *Recommend*
• Hiking backpack- If you don't bring a hiking bag at least bring something that you can travel with easily. *Highly Recommend*
• Leatherman- YES YES and YES. I've used my pliers, screwdrivers, mini saw, knives and just about every function of this tool. *Highly Recommend*
• Swiss Army Knife- I also use extensively all the time but you could pick between this or the leather-man. The Swiss army stays in my to go bag. *Highly Recommend*
• Caribeaners- these are great for hanging things off the ground, clipping things to a pack, and a million other uses. *Recommend*
• Paracord or rope- You can get rope here and probably won't need it until you get to your site. *Not necessary*
• Good knife sharpener- Definitely bring it. *Highly Recommend*
• Bicycle saddle bags- Nice when it's hot and you don't want to carry a backpack or long trips. Sometimes PCVs sell theirs when they leave. *Not necessary but super helpful*
• Bicycle seat cover- Don't regret that puppy for one minute! Some even brought comfortable bike seats. The trails are bumpy and the seats are hard. *PC gives you pretty much everything else you need for your bike. *Highly Recommend*
• Bungee cords- Great for tying things to your bike rack or securing your luggage. After training you can buy rubber straps here when they break so just a few will do. *Recommend*
• Headlamp- Definitely. Get a solar powered one and you'll never run out of juice or at least if you do it's free to recharge. *PC gives you a solar lamp when you start training and you can buy an additional one if desired. *Highly Recommend*
• Pack Towels- They are nice but a chitenge works just as well. Leave them at home if you are short on space. *Not Necessary*
• Water Bottles- I brought 2 Nalgenes and a hydro flask. Whatever you bring make sure it's durable and holds enough water. *Highly Recommend*
• Water Bladder- I really only use mine when I know I'm going to be away all day with no access to filtered water or on bike trips. *Save your space*
• Life straw water filter- I haven't used mine yet. You can buy clorine water treatment and iodine tablets. *PC gives you a carbon based water filter for home use. *Save your space*
• Backpack- I don't leave the house without mine, it's my daily carry all. Get a waterproof cover so you can use it in the rain. *Highly Recommend*
• Duct Tape- Invaluable and you can't find it here. Also bring a Sharpe since you will label everything during training. *Highly Recommend*
• Gorilla glue- I use mine to repair everything! *highly recommend*
• Hammock- I had one sent after living here a while and love it to lounge around my insaka but certainly something you can live without. *not necessary*
• Crazy creek chair- I use mine outside all the time, definitely a luxury but because they pack small it was worth it for me. *not necessary*

Toiletries

• Lush Shampoo bars- These things are awesome! They pack small and last a long time. *Highly Recommend*
• Shampoo and conditioner are expensive. You can find the basics like suave, dove, and Pantene but if you like something special plan to stock up or have it sent. *Highly Recommend*
• Deodorant- Its rare to find the normal stick deodorant here. Roll ons are common but expensive. Bring a good stash or plan to have it sent unless you don't mind the smell of BO *Highly Recommend*
• Lotion- You can get it here even at the small tuck shops. *Save your space*
• Soap- You can buy soap here but if you like something special bring it because you go through a lot of soap. *Not necessary*
• Solar Shower- I personally think a bucket bath is more efficient but those bent on a shower can have a bucket/faucet version made pretty easily *Save your space*
• Face cleanser- There are some here but bring your own if you have a brand you like. Also expensive *Recommend*
• Soap container- You can find them here but you'll use it before you have a chance to look for one and they are light. *Recommend*
• Razors- Bring some refills from home. *Recommend*
• Fem Items- You can buy them here but they are expensive. *Peace Corps does not supply them. Many like the diva cup. I got the mirena implant before coming and have not needed to use mine. *Highly Recommend*
• Medical Items- I brought a travel kit with the basics but PC gives you an extensive Medical Kit. *Do not bring benedryl to Zambia it is a controlled substance here. *Not Necessary*
• Nail polish- It can be found here but is super expensive in Lusaka. Everyone loves having their nails painted and it's a fun way to bond with women and children. *not necessary*
• Sunscreen- Peace corps provides spf30 generic sunblock but I like having the nice neutrogena stuff for my face. *recommend*
• Toothbrush and toothpaste- You can find ones here after you run out, no need to stockpile. *not necessary (to bring enough for all of service)*

Household Items

• Good kitchen knives- YES! Just a good chef knife and pairing knife would do. You can get decent knives in Lusaka but I still think mine are better quality. *Highly Recommend*
• Measuring Cups- I never baked back home but here I use these things all the time. You can find them in Lusaka but I brought some cool collapsible ones. *Not Necessary*

Clothing
*note: Zambia and especially the training centers do get cold during cold season. Additionally you can get clothes cheap and easy in country but you wont have a chance to get some new things until after training.

• This section will be slanted toward females and geared toward the teaching program.
• Jacket-you can leave your down filled gear at home but bring at least one semi-warm jacket like a fleece. *highly recommend*
• Leggings- I brought two long pairs and three knee length pairs. I literally wear leggings everyday under skirts, dresses, or chitenges. Pack lots! *Highly recommend*
• Tank Tops- You cannot wear them to teach but you can wear them around the village. I only brought 2 and I wish I had brought more. *Highly Recommend*
• Skirts and dresses- Make sure they are below the knee. For the RED program females you will have to wear a dress or skirt while teaching but you can also have them made from chitenge. *Recommend*
• Pants- Known as trousers here and you will want a couple nice pairs to wear around. You can't teach in them but I wish I had brought some capri length ones to wear when I'm not teaching. *Highly Recommend*
• Bras- Bring what is comfortable and versatile. I got some without under wires and they are much easier to wash. I haven't seen much I'd want to wear here so bring several. *Highly Recommended*
• Underwear- I spent money on the nice exificio travel underwear and don't regret a cent! They are comfortable, dry fast, and have withstood hand washing better than the cotton ones I brought. An idea to try is separating what you bring into two plastic bags and opening the second bag of new underwear a year into service. *Highly Recommend*
• Chacos- I personally brought two pairs and while they aren't the most fashionable shoe out there they are crazy durable and comfortable. *Highly Recommend*
• Dress shoes- Bring one pair they will be required from time to time. Bigger feet beware you will have a hard time finding shoes here. *Recommend*
• Tennis shoes/hiking boots- I brought a nice pair that promptly got stolen on public transport and have been fine with just sandals. Unless you want to do some serious hiking/running you can get by without. *save your space*
• Long sleeve shirts- Where I live it heats up during the day even in cold season. If you have a good jacket to throw over a short sleeve shirt you can leave the long ones at home. *save your space*
• Jewelry- It's nice on occasion to dress up especially since teachers do but I mostly wear the same thing everyday. Plus you can get some fun stuff at the market. *save your space*
• Hats/bandanas- A hat with a brim can be nice for the sun but you can't teach in them. Some really like buffs and headbands to tame their mane but I find them to be too hot. *not necessary*
• Socks- I brought a couple pairs that I hardly ever wear. *recommend 1-2 pairs only*

Electronics

• Orange Joos Solar Charger- Mine has held up great and charges my phones and tablet. This one is water resistant so I leave it out when I think it might rain. *recommend*
• Goal Zero Nomad 7 Panel and Goal 10 Power Pack.- I like my goal zero because the power pack is comprised of AA batteries. I bought spare rechargeable batteries that I use in my battery powered things. *highly recommend*
• Spare power pack- Super useful to have double the power and I can charge both in a single day of sunshine. *highly recommended*
• Rechargeable batteries- great for use with battery powered items like flashlights, hand fans, radios, etc. But if you don't have any battery devices skip them. Batteries can be purchased in country but they are poor quality and don't last long. *recommended*
• Battery powered hand fan- When one was sent to me via care package my life was changed! Laying in bed at night with a fan cooling my sweat glazed body was the only thing that got me through hot season. *HIGHLY RECOMMEND*
• MP3 Player- Just make sure whatever you bring is loaded with tunes and compatible with your other devices. *recommend*
• Portable speaker- I love mine. I just bought a cheap $20 one and it's held up great. The sound quality of the bigger and heavier ones is better but mine is light and loud enough for my hut. *Highly recommend*
• External hard drive-bring one loaded with new music, movies, shows, and e-books and you are sure to be everyone's best friend when you arrive in province! Format it for both mac and pc for the most convenience. *highly recommend*
• Laptop- The provincial houses are supposed to have computers for use but ours has been broken for months. My mac-book died in country and I'm struggling to get work done without a computer. Favorites seem to be the small net books or macs. *recommend*
• Unlocked smartphone- Some people like their i phones but you can purchase a decent smart phone or a fairly basic internet phone here for $100-200. Dual Sims are nice since there are multiple networks and service can go in and out. Also both of the major networks offer special data bundles for much cheaper on blackberry phones such as the blackberry curve and bold. Newer all touchscreen models don't qualify for the special blackberry rates. Personally I would wait and just splurge for a smartphone here. *not necessary (bring cash to buy in country)*
• E-reader- Love mine. I wasn't a big reader back home but here I read all the time and traveling with an e-reader is so much easier than stacks of books. Plus you can load some of the peace corps PDFs and have resource manuals at your fingertips. *Highly recommend*
• Bluetooth keyboard- I sync mine with a smartphone or tablet for easy use. If you plan to blog from your hut it makes life way easier. *recommend*
• Voltage converter- I suspect my laptop might have been friend from regular power inconsistencies so I'd highly recommend a converter not just an adapter. *highly recommend*
• Plug adapters- can be purchased easily in country for cheap (shoprite). *Save your space*
• Extra cords/headphones/etc- Zambia is where everything electronic comes to die, have some backup cables and such. They don't take up much room and can be hard to find specific ones. *highly recommend*

Misc and Teaching supplies
*I packed some things in plastic containers. This helped to keep things from getting crushed in my luggage and provided some rat/water proof storage when I got to site.

• Playing cards- you can buy them here but they are a fun thing to have for peers and playing with kids. *recommend*
• Stickers-great to use for rewards and hard to find here. *recommend*
• Poster markers-you will likely make lots of teaching aids and good permanent markers are expensive on a PC salary so bring a stash of different colors. *highly recommend*
• Misc office supplies- I brought a baggie of paperclips, rubber bands, a small stapler, brads, binder clips, etc. I use them often for various things. *recommend*
• Ziploc bags- I personally don't think you can have enough of these out here. Bring some assorted sizes. *highly recommend*
• Colored Pencils- They don't melt like crayons and I use them in my classroom a lot.*recommend*
• Scissors- Many uses. *highly recommend*

Food
*You really can find a lot of foods here and daily village staples usually include rice, bread, nshima, pasta, potatoes, soya pieces, peanut butter & ground nuts, beans & lentils,eggs, and fresh vegetables available in your village.

• Spices- You can get most of the basics in Lusaka but I brought some special blends from home that were well worth the space to me. *not necessary*
• Tea/Coffee- Powdered instant coffee and basic tea is available. If you like something specific bring your own. *recommend*
• Beef Jerky- My go to protein snack. *highly recommend*
• Snack food in general- Anything easy to grab and go is great. *highly recommend*
• Nutella- You can get small jars in Lusaka, do not bring PB there is plenty of it here. *save your space*
• Hard Cheese or Kraft grated Parmesan cheese- you can find cheese in Lusaka and the bigger cities but hard cheeses will keep longer and those varieties you can't find here. *not necessary*
• Dried fruit- some is available in Lusaka but it's crazy expensive. *highly recommend*
• Drink mixes- Gatorade, emergen-c, hot apple cider, and lemonade are great for re hydrating or just something that tastes like home. *highly recommend*
• Gummy Vitamins- Great for "sweeties" to reward kids in the village and they secretly get some vitamins. *not necessary*

Teen's Technology Troubles

I am officially a Zambia PCV. I have 4 phones. 2 blackberries, 1 smartphone, and 1 in-between internet phone. Because of the multiple phone carriers and coverage here it is not uncommon for PCVs to have multiple phones. I'd like to think 4 is outrageous but I can think of 2 other PCVs off the top of my head who have also had this many phones. That's the other thing about phones here. Zambia chews them up and spits them out not unlike the gnashing of teeth displayed while the children eat sugarcane.

Phone number 1 was the unlocked smartphone I brought to country with me from America, a galaxy note. Unfortunately the reception on this phone is pretty poor, possibly due to age, and it works very rarely, and not at all at my site.  I can't get  any sort of data coverage. The calling coverage is medial at best. Because of this I purchased phone number 2.

Phone #2 is my samsung chat. An "internet" phone as they call it which can access webpages and facebook but no "apps". This has been my main phone and has the perk of dual sim so I can put both my MTN and Airtel sim cards in it and switch back and forth to find the best reception. This poor phone has already taken quite the beating and my "a" key frequently sticks now. This phone, and problem, is the reason for my poorly spelled and punctuated posts on facebook.  It is also responsible for all the 2megapixel photo uploads you might have seen.

During training I learned that phone data is expensive. They don't necessarily have monthly plans like we do in the USofA, it's all prepaid. So every mb of data, second of talk time, and text message adds up. I found out that through Airtel they offered a blackberry data plan that gave me unlimited data for 36kr a month. Way better than the 500mb I was buying for 50kr. So I petitioned my friends stateside for an old blackberry. My friend found an old one and got it unlocked and my lovely mother shipped it over. So phone number 3 was an old blackberry. I was so excited when I got it. I loaded up the sim card and tried to download an app. Nothing. I had to wait until we went to Lusaka to take it to the phone store, who told me it  needed an OS upgrade. So I took it to the blackberry store only to find out the cable needed they didn't have. So I scoured the shops at Mansa Hill Shopping Mall to try to find an older miniusb cord. Nothing. So I pocketed the phone. Next time I returned to Lusaka I brought the cable with me and left the phone overnight for the 4 hour upgrade. When I came back the following day they said it had failed and gave me the number of a shady guy in the market that I could try. I had no idea how to get there nor would we be taken there during our time in Lusaka for swear in. So I had a glorified bar phone (just calls and text).

Phone number 4 was gifted to me recently by the PCV who I replaced. She said it was locked and had to be unlocked in Lusaka. I made plans to do it next time I was there but luckily another PCV knew a trick and I was able to get the phone working! Hallelujah! The Airtel service provider is the one I have to use in the phone but at least I was able to download whatapps and viber. That's right you can message me through either of those now! My connection here isn't good enough to make calls through viber though. Bummer. Now the only problem I face with this phone is the "o" key and "delete" key don't work. :( Why is it always the vowels that break! Why can't something insignificant like x break!

So the next part of the technological snafu was the bluetooth keyboard I brought to connect to said phone and type up blog posts with. It works beautifully. Unfortunately it only works with Android and Apple operating systems. This means I can type drafted blog posts on the no-data smartphone and then when I finally get somewhere with working wifi (very seldom) I can upload said posts.

Whew! That being said it has been a struggle to do justice to this poor blog and with the very poor connections photo uploads to the blog are out of the question. Those are done by my wonderful mother stateside when I physically mail flash drives packed with month's worth of photos.

So in short, I apologize for the infrequency of posts and the bulk of posts, when I do post, but such is life and luck in Zambia! Not all of us can be posted right next to cell towers like Matt (fishinginZambia.wordpress.com). But then again not all of us can live close to a beautiful waterfall. You win some you lose some, and right now I'm clearly losing the battle with technology in the bush.

The ants go marching...

It was a bright sunny Monday morning and my birthday had come early when a Peace Corps cruiser pulled up to my house bearing packages and friends. They were en route to another destination so it was a quick drop but made my day none the less. The cruiser pulled out and by this time several of "my children" had gathered round watching the "motokar" as it plowed down the tall grasses of my pathway under it's tires. The attention shifted to big brown boxes on my porch. I was having a great morning so I thought "why not?" Let's open them together. So we opened the first package, nothing interesting to the children except the bag of jelly beans which they quickly pegged as sweeties. The second package however held on the very top some fun puzzle books so we sat down togther finding various objects in the "I Spy" book. I heaved the heavy package inside and began to unpack the coveted contents consisting of all of my favorite things from home. That's when I heard "Ba Teeny, impashi." I poked my head out the door to see what "impashi" was.....to my horror my yard, insaka, and porch step were covered in hundreds of thousands of tiny ants. They flowed like a river and were making their way up the sides of the porch and house. At the time I had no idea what impashi were other than a bunch of ants but this many of them seemed to be cause for alarm especially because I'd received several painful ant bites a few days prior. I turned to Elvis, a kid of maybe 8 years old, and said in English; "What do we do?" Despite the fact that he probably had no idea what my actual words were he knew exactly what I said. The next words out of his mouth was "Mommy! Mommy!" Ba Priscilla (the hero of this story) made her way to my house to answer the call and in a not so concerned voice voice said " tsk tssk tsk impashi" while shaking her head. "Naisa," she replied (I'm coming in icibemba.) She disappeared and returned a few minutes later with an interesting array of items. Based on the bowl of powder, old bicycle tire, lit braiser, and bush knife I wasn't quite sure what was about to go down. She made her way across the sea of ants; barefoot and with a baby on her back of course. Stomping off the ants that were biting her feet and legs she sprinkled a line of the white powder. It was tute or cassava flour, the main ingredient in their staple food, n'shima. Apparently what is nutrition to them is poison to the ants. The line of flour created a barrier between them and my house which few were keen on crossing but this was only step one in the two-part plan.
Next came the tire. I watched in awe as if something magical were about to happen. She cut the tire into strips sticking them into the hot coals until they caught flame. Then the process was to drag the ozone polluting flaming pieces of rubber over the massive trails of ants. I wasn't sure at the time if the toxic smoke was killing them or just the flamage itself. Turns out it's the fire component. The burnt rubber smoke that invaded our lungs was merely a bonus of fighting impashi. By this time the ants were starting to scatter though still teaming in numbers; I remembered that mom had sent borax which can be used to kill ants. I ran in the house and dug out my chemical warfare to add to the battle. The ants didn't like it one bit, but the multi-use cleaning powder didn't go very far with so many ants-so back to the fire. By now we had several pieces of burning rubber and Elvis, Priscilla, and I were winning the battle as we continued to scorch anything moving while shaking the biters off our ankles. It had been a little over an hour combating the pesky foes but it seemed they had been sufficiently vanquished. I was running late to school by now so I threw on a dress and practically ran.
It wasn't until talking with the teachers at school that I learned that these tiny ants are carnivorous. The flesh eating impashi or driver ant of sub-saharan African. I was told that if these little devils make it into a chicken run of 100 chickens you'd be luky if 3 survived. Additionally I was told they eat snakes, mice, other bugs, and they'd eat you if you didn't swat them off. Mildly terrified I now understood why everyone had been concerned about the trails of ants wandering through my yard in the past weeks.Turns out these ants are nomadic to top the cake, and my covered yard was only the tip of iceberg in terms of their numbers.I also understood why the chickens had no interest in picking at these ants.
I wish I could say this was the end of the story.... After I returned home from school my yard now looked like a war zone. There was a line of white powder outlining my house, parts of the walls had scorch marks, and scraps of melted rubber lay in ruins on the ground. Weeds had been ripped from the ground and strewn about in a shamble. I got a chuckle out of the whole seen. "All because of some little ants," I thought. While I was inside the voice of a different child rang out again, "impashi." Here we go again! I went outside to assess the situation since I now knew the battle tactics. Luckily this was only one line of ants. The numbers of "a line" of ants still range in the thousands but it was better than the possible million that inhabitated my yard that morning. I followed the line to the end and decided to try the borax approach on this particular infantry marching their way around my house like the walls of Jericho. I attempted to mix some in a spray bottle for easy distribution but it wouldn't dissolve and I decided to go back to the tried and true fire approach. I grabbed the pieces of rubber that lay around the yard and went over to my host family's house to ask for fire. When I explained there were impashi I got not only the fire but a helping hand. Bamaayo pulled some thatching out of the insaka roof and lit it on fire strategically placing them to burn out the enemy. The borax had already done its part in dwindling the numbers and we were in the home stretch of fending off this invasion when another bamaayo walked by. She of course quickly jumped in to finish the job. I breathed the second sigh of releif for the day but all too soon. A second swarm of these things were making their way out of the bush and aimed directly for my house. Bamaayo grabbed a bowl of tute flour and sprinkled a semi-circle around the tall grass they were emerging from like some sort of juju getting ready to call the dead. When a few ants were finding their way around the barrier of flour she pulled out this black goop that looks like a combination of tar and used motor oil. It is used to treat wood to keep the termites off. In this case it was also meant to poision or at least detour the impashi. It worked.
Next thing I know Ba Grace, the third person to join us, is asking for a bowl and water. I had no idea what we were doing so I obliged. She diluted some of the goop and sprinkled it over any remaining ants around my house using my broom. Needless to say that broom has been retitled as the "outdoor broom" now that it's covered in the black sticky junk. My home now had a sufficient barrier of not only tute flour but black streaks of the anti-termite/ant paint. Ok for real this time. Chopwa (finish) please! It was so. In one short day I had fought the tiny beasts three times fending off their bites while bamaayos told me to go stand on the porch so I wouldn't get bitten. Three times I had breathed in the toxic fumes of flaming rubber, and three times I had reveled in the comradery of warfare.
It was humurous but I was exhausted. Luckily I had leftovers to reheat for dinner so I didn't have to go through the long process of cooking. That night when I went outside to use the bathroom there they were again. Several steady streams of the things like the armies of Xerxes never stopping. I noticed they weren't breaching the barriers still in place so I called truce on the fight. There was some poetic justice as I watched a group of army ants, the other carnivorous ant, picking off the small impashi ants one by one. I'm afraid it was a stalemate of epic proportions though; for what the impashi lacked in size they made up for in sheer numbers. And so as the crescent moon glowed, illuminating the spider's webs, as the ants went marching.

A place where everybody knows your name

Sometimes life here feels a little bit like an episode of Cheers when Norm walks through the door. Well except the bar and English. But everywhere I go it's calls all the way of "Ba Teeny, Hello!" from the kids and various bemba greetings from the adults.

There is a culture here surrounding greetings. That is to say if you don't stop and greet every person you see it's thought rude and I've even had teachers exclaim, "I thought you hated me." Only because I didn't intterupt their class to say hello.

I look at this culture in two lights depending on what I'm doing and my particular energy level of the day. On the positive side I love that people actually say hi and acknowledge the prescence and well being of others and not just in an artificial way. I love that when I walk to the river I somehow hear my name before I can even see faces. I love that I know my neighbors. And I love that this "celebrity" feeling keeps me safe since I know people care about me. On the other hand on days where I'm running a bit behind to school or a meeting it's frustrating to not be able to just fly past with my blinders on. Or perhaps when my energy level has hit rock bottom it takes a lot of work to muster up the "Mwashibukeni" every ten feet as I stroll down the path. The funny thing is that no one would think twice if I were ten minutes late because I stopped to greet people.

In a way it's a refreshing change since the emphasis here is on people rather than meetings or appointments that we so commonly value in our society. The urgent pace of life is far less urgent here. The pace is calm and steady, stopping to talk or laugh with a friend.

I will say sometimes it makes me regret not living in a small town where everybody really does know your name. I do sometimes enjoy the anonominity of my hometown in America but the rich culture of community here is not something that will easily be forgotten when I leave this place. Even when I ride my bike to the market 7k away I hear my name in villages over and no matter how fast I'm pedaling it always brings a smile to my face. I'm starting to feel like this really is home.

The joy of giving

During our Pre-service training one thing Zambians noted about American culture is that we don't share or give as freely as perhaps they are accustomed to. Many voulunteers disputed this matter saying, "but don't you see us share our lunches, and our cokes, and such?" My thoughts are this: yes we shared our lunch that was a portion for three, yes we gave a friend a sip of a cold beverage, I'm not saying we don't share but I'm saying a majority of American's, myself included, share or give when it's convienant. Yes I'm making a mass cultural statement that doesn't accurately reflect each individual but in many ways it does reflect the overlying appearance of our society.

Let me demonstrate: today I went to the river to do my normal chores. One of the older girls that lives around was there fishing. First of all she stopped fishing to come help me with my dishes. When we were done I asked how many fish she had caught so far. She held up a small fish not quite the width of my palm to show her catch. I smiled and bid her wishes for a good catch. Before I could leave a another young girl was offering me the fish. I insisted it was their fish to eat and that I didn't need it, but as is so common here, before I could hardly say no thanks, the fish was being scaled and gutted for me to take home and eat.  Will the girl catch more fish for the family to eat for dinner tonight? Maybe, if she stays all day then likely. But the point to me was that she gave up her morning's worth of fishing efforts and quite possibly the only protein she will have today without hesitation.

Yes the fish was small and yes lots of people fish here regularly but to me it wasn't the size of the gift it was the complete willingness to give without thought of her own needs. To put someone else before yourself entirely. I'll be totally honest with you if the tables had been turned I would not have been so selfless.  But it humbled me today to take this girl's only fish. I even started a fire just to fry  the little thing. And it was only a couple tiny bites but more than the protein it gave my body was the nourishment it gave my heart.

And perhaps next time when I think about being stingy with money or food or whatever I might have I'll be a little more like the girl with the fish.

The importance of culture

Someone mentioned to me the other day that there really is no need for currency anymore. First of all the bartering system has been employed since the start of time and currency is only an invention of government. Secondly by this individual's argument we should be capable of a world electronic currency that would make the printing, exchanging, and other hassles irrelevant.

To this statement I kindly disagreed. First off those who enjoy collecting different currency would be sorely dissappointed but secondly money is still one aspect that maintains culture.

The Nation of Zambia is comprised of 73 tribes with that many more languages and dialects. In order to bridge the gap the Zambian government has declared English their national language stemming back to their prior English colonialism. This has been one attempt at uniting these tribes, but back to the money. The Zambian currency is called Kwacha with their equivalent of "cents" being called ingwe. The current exchange rate is 6 kwacha to 1 dollar. (5KR to 1USD if you are exchanging smaller bills like 20s). Previously the Kwacha was in 1,000 denominations until a government effort change the value last year.

Despite attempts to unify all of Zambia under their current creed "One Nation Strong and Free" there still exists two worlds here- that of the rural and that of the urban. And in many ways it could be said that of the old and that of the new. And despite a declared national language and national currency the fact yet remains that there are 73 different peoples under one flag. I'll talk another time about the tradition of tribal cousinship as a means of keeping peace and culture but for now let's keep on the money theme.

The old world is the one I live in. The part of Zambia many refer to as "the bush" or "the village." It's the part of Zambia where they don't speak English and they still pay for things with Chickens. To my surprise it's the part of Zambia many urban Zambians have never seen or experienced. It is here that culture and currency is rich. It is here that exists the beauty in our differences.  Cultural differences between tribes still leaves room for many difficulties but the more we try to unite one common thing the more we strip away those very things that make us identifiable. So with all this being said I think there is simplist beauty in bartering. I think different currency is fascinating, though it can be a pain when traveling. But above all I think the idea of currency is that of the idea of language; it identifies us and allows us to carry out our own traditions. Can you imagine a world without brightly colored different sized Euros (another example of standardizing), without the fascinating creatures on Idian rupees, without our rather boring green American dollar bills, without pirates goldesque coins from Honduras, without the Zambian money that is usually so worn you can barely decern its value. I agree it would be highly convienant but aside from that it would be oh so boring! So I for one, rejoice in our differences that define our cultures, currency and all.

Snakes, rats, & bats oh my!

A cute bat lives in my chim, rats eat my stuff while I'm away, and a snake crawled over my foot in the river. It sounds like the start of the children's book "Alexandar's very bad horrible no good day" but in fact it's just my life here in Zambia.

This time of year the rains are driving out and in some cases into our homes the creatures big and small. The bat who lives in my chimbusu was only speculation from the regular and centered droppings but on a rainy Saturday I finally met the little fellow face to face. He was actually quite adorable and I felt a little bad shooing him out into the rain but alas I don't want to be pooped on while I'm pooping!

The rats and mice, well they are always around but they've taken refuge in my roof where the cat can't get them. So instead I hear them running around up there in my plastic lining all the time. Unfortunately while the cat is away the mice WILL play. And by play I mean eat through books, boxes, plastic bags, and poop all over my house! It makes me never want to leave my house for vacation again.

And the snake: this time of year a lot of their burrows have flooded from the rains and they are out and about for your viewing pleasure (not!). I had previously seen a few small, probably harmless ones and killed one with a stick but the ones out and about now are no joke. The other day I was at the river intently washing my clothes when I felt something on my toe. I looked down and a 4ft long black snake was resting its head on my presumably warm and comfy foot. Now I'm not overly scared of snakes, I think one could say I have a healthy appreciation of them but I won't hesitate to hold a pet snake and I was the kid who freaked mom out by bringing ones I had caught inside. However, here in Africa just about every variety of snake is darn near deadly and even if the venom doesn't kill you the resulting infection from a bite sure could. So needless to say when I saw a blackish grey head of the sleek and smooth variety resting on my foot I screamed and ran away. Admitidly this was a stupid move because motion and noise only irritate snakes. Luckily this guy wasn't an aggressive snake and didn't pursue me out of the water but he sure did lift his head and hiss. I looked around for a big stick to kill the snake with and I don't know how exactly it's possible since there are always bamboo poles laying about, but I couldn't find a single stick in the vicinity. I tried a different method and started yelling "insoka!" the bemba word for snake. Usually this results in 1-5 villagers popping out of places you didn't even know existed and coming to kill it, but I timed my washing just right and there wasn't a soul around. Just me and an angry snake chilling by my laundry. I was contemplating what to do and when I looked back up it was gone. I hadn't seen where it went, I hadn't heard it go, and there was no trace that it had ever been there. Feeling sufficiently creeped out and slightly questioning my sanity I cautiously returned to my washing. I kept thinking, "there is nothing here and it happened so fast, maybe I was just imagining it." I didn't understand where a 4ft snake could've disappeared to in an instant. After a while I forgot about the snake and was in the home strech of finishing washing my clothes. I was reveling in the accomplishment when that same darn snake poked his head around the other side of my bucket. I again screamed and stumbled back a bit but not so far this time, the snake didn't seem to care at all. It's almost as if he was just saying "what's up, you doing some laundry over here? Let me see what your washing in this bucket." And when my reply was just to carefully watch him he got bored and moved to the rocks on the side. I tried my "insoka" tactic again but nothing. This time I didn't take my eyes off the thing. Instead I studied it. It looked far longer now that it was stretched out instead of scrunched up preparaed to strike. At first I could only see black but now that the sun came out I noticed the grey/silver coloring and I immediately made note of the head shape since this is exactly the color of our deadly friend the black mamba who is called so not for the outter skin but the pitch black inside it's mouth. Luckily mambas have a coffin shaped head with a more pointed nose, this one clearly had a more circular/oval shaped head. Whew! It also probably explains why it didn't chase me as a mamba would've. I watched this thing slither around the rocks and then dip back into the water. The thing swam completely submerged under water silently and almost invisible! It wasn't until it neared a tree that it began to swim with its head up. It lifted it's body out of the water an impressive distance until it grabbed a branch and pulled the rest of its body into the tree. I watched it like a hawk while I washed my last clothing item and rinsed everything. It blended in with the branch so well I couldn't tell if it was still there or not but I definitely high tailed it out of there once everything was clean. Having a valid case of the creepy crawlies I flinched at every movement in the bush on the path home. After hanging my clothes I called my friend and he identified it as an olive web snake from my description, only mildlly venomous and not at all aggressive, but never the less reccomended investing in a machete or something to carry with me when I'm in the bush this time of year. The villagers laugh at me now when I take it to the river, but just wait what they will say the next time I meet one!

Welcome to rainy season in the bush my friends! And snakes, rats, and bats are only the beginning of the life that has emerged from the foliage.

PICTURES FROM TRAINING: SUMMER 2014

Pictures from training in Chipimpi near the capital of Lusaka:  summer of 2014