Zam Travel

Oh the places you'll go!
That is if you have an abundance of time, no sense of smell, and don't mind being canned like a sardine in a sorta seat.

23 in a minibus

Welcome to Zambian travel my friends.
The norm here is hitch hiking which isn't exactly like it sounds. Hitching usually implies a free ride and I seldom get those. But if you want to catch a ride in the middle of the bush you stand on a road and wave your arm/hand until someone stops. Sometimes it's a bus, other times it's a private vehicle, and occasionally they are big rigs (though I don't flag those). They stop, you tell them a destination, they tell you to get in, you ask for a price, they say don't worry about it (this is a trick, always negotiate before), you agree on a price that is usually half of what they asked for originally, people and bags are shifted to make room where there is none, and you cram yourself into that space hoping the door will shut or if it's a bus you cram in hoping there is actually a seat, and then you are off- that is until the next person waving down a ride. The process continues on as people (inevitably the ones in the back corner) get off and others get on until you finally reach your destination. Rides range from a truck bed to a leather seat with a seat belt, its all in the luck of the day.

An average ride to Mansa, the provincial capital, takes me about an hour and a half on a good day. I go at least once a month to get money from the atm and groceries when we get paid. From Mansa you can get to Lusaka by way of a charter bus that charges 150 kwacha for the 13-15 hour ride (if you don't break down). These bus rides are dreaded and cram you into a seat that even the tiniest of human could not comfortably fit all the while blaring Zampop or more often Bemba worship songs. The worst part is I can sing along now. You would think that means I've ridden the bus too much which is only partly true; it's more a matter of the fact that the same cd gets played on repeat the entire trip. If you are lucky you will get a seat next to a reasonably sized Zambian who prefers to sleep. If fortune is not in your favor you end up with a half of a seat and a screaming baby in your lap while everyone's bags whack you in the head as they squish down the isle you are practically seated in. These buses make scheduled stops to load and unload passengers at major bomas/towns. They tell you they are leaving in 5 minutes, 20 minutes later everyone tries to frantically board the bus as it's pulling out.

On occasion I've had the pleasure of decent conversation with a fluent English speaking Zambian, though I've also experienced the displeasure of fluent drunk Zambians who like to point out that Obama is President and that I'm going to marry them and take them to America. The people you share very close quarters with for short to long rides rang from teachers & government workers, to farmers & children.

And then there is the cargo. I've sat on crates of bottles, I've had live chickens on my feet. I've seen more giant blankets and suitcases crammed into precarious places than I could ever wish for. Zambags (a large heavy duty reusable shopping bag) full of who-knows-what. Mini-buses crammed with bags of mealie meal (maize) and tute (cassava). 18-wheelers stacked high with Zambians balancing on their bags of charcoal to sell at the market. Bicycles heading to their new homes in the village. New farm tools like hoes & the occasional wheel barrow. The items transported here run the gammet!

I once got a hitch from a Zambian who had been to my hometown. When he asked what state I was from and I replied with Colorado he asked, "like Colorado Springs?" I turned my water bottle proudly displaying my Mountain Chalet sticker with Colorado Springs underlined and we both laughed at what a small world it is. Later he even proceeded to show me our new $100 bill! I thought it was monopoly money! When I asked what I owed him his sweet reply was; "how can I charge a sister that is teaching my people and speaking my language?" I didn't argue. We still keep in touch on Facebook.

People overcharge us the minute they see white skin not knowing that we live here and know the prices but we also get some pretty nice charity sometimes when people find out who we are and what we do. Zambians appreciate volunteers because they bring aid to the people but they are always particularly fascinated that we live in the bush with them for two years. This fact alone means that just about every car ride involves the same conversation. Come to think of it I should just record the questions and answers and hit play on my phone when I get into a new vehicle where they don't know me. It would save me a lot of brain power struggling to hear which question is next through the blaring music or wind howling through cracked windows all while deciphering the accent.

I've made it a common practice to wave at every vehicle that passes on the tarmac/road as I walk to school every day never knowing when one them might just be my next ride.
On the upside, flying economy from now on will be a luxury!

Tai Chi for bush living

Tai Chi is not merely a martial art practiced by those who subscribe to a dowist lifestyle, and it certainly isn't just exercise for the old guys at the YMCA. Tai Chi is a way of life. A way of commanding one's body toward health, relaxation, and a better quality of life and movement. Tai Chi is moving meditation. Sure the art form teaches self defense and can be a good workout but it is so much more. Everyone I know who has really given tai chi a chance has a story of self exploration, healing, or positive change.

Back in the states I would attend classes under the wonderful Shifu Michael Paler (if you are in Colorado Springs look up his school). Under Michael I learned so many amazing things and each week/class was a new realm of discovery. It was here in only a short 6 months I learned how to relax my body and orient my posture. I learned technique and form.I learned how much stronger and more flexible tendons and ligaments are than muscle. It was in class that I finally learned how to quiet my busy mind. It was in class I learned how to live and love more fully. Tai Chi taught me to appreciate my slightly overweight frame I had always struggled to love. It taught me to be thankful for my health and mobility.

When I moved to Zambia I had grand notions of practicing my newly found art form daily and continuing my journey on my own. Those hopes were quickly crushed with a tiring PST regiment for the first 3 months, followed by a hellishly hot season for the next 3 months in which I only wanted to press against the cool concrete floor. With the circumstances pushing me further and further from my original goal I was becoming a bit disappointed in myself and my lack of discipline. Occasionally, I slept wrong and my neck was a bit sore so I'd do some tai chi stretching to loosen things up and relieve the pain but I wasn't doing my normal 30 minute warm-up and form. Occasionally, I still chastised myself for not "practicing" more but I've come to realize that while I may not practice my tai chi I instead live it.

Every day both consciously and unconsciously I put into practice the many aspects of tai chi I worked so hard to learn. My form has changed from 24 count to the every move of daily living. Bush living is demanding. We are subsistence farmers, teachers with limited resources, health workers with no vehicles, skilled tradesmen with hand tools, we haul our water from a river, fight the earth to bring forth food, and spend the days making something from nothing. Ironically, because of this lifestyle these kids know what I had to relearn in my mid 20's- how to use your body. It sounds crazy and intuitive but it's not. Our western life has us hunched over keyboards, lounging on a couch, or working out with machines that aren't the best for our anatomy.

The women here carry large loads on their heads often without hands, and more commonly with a baby strapped to their backs. They are crazy strong and usually pretty skinny. The math doesn't seem to add up, unless you understand how to really use your body. In training PC cautioned us from carrying water on our heads because there have been too many neck injuries as a result. I've heard several PCVs tell me they don't carry heavy things on their head because their neck muscles aren't strong enough. Ironically, it has nothing to do with strength, it's all about posture. I take all the misaligned kinks out of my body and simply let gravity do the heavy lifting. I can carry loads on my head that I can't even lift to my head. It is so incredible how our anatomy really works. When you learn to relax all those tight muscles and let your tendons do the work it becomes almost effortless. I still can't balance the buckets of sloshing water like these incredible women but I have accomplished my goal of carrying things like a local. As an added bonus they still chuckle when I lift buckets up to my head to haul back from the river.

Carrying things on my head was the major goal I wanted to accomplish through use of tai chi but as I said before I find it's flowing into every aspect of my daily existence. When I swing my braiser I rotate from my hips instead of over extending my arm. I recently realized I can even practice being "pung" while pouring my kettle. I squat I-don't-know-how-many times per day, something that I couldn't have done for more than a few seconds back home. I find myself tensing up when dealing with frustrating people on buses but then I make a conscious effort to relax. I wish I could say that made travel tolerable, which is doesn't, but it does prevent me from the pain often associated with a long crammed bus ride.

I was worried when I came to Zambia about not having a chiropractor to see here but I've now gone the longest period in my adult life without chiropractic care and I've never felt better. The benefits of tai chi for both  body and mind are numerous and I can't imagine how much different my existence here in the bush might have been without this knowledge. While my experience back in the states was rejuvenating and even healing for some physical ailments, here it is just down right necessary.

The love of a child

There are many joys in this world but I never thought I'd say one of them was a child, or in this case many children. Tons of kids hang out at Ba Teeny's house but not all of them are "my kids." Only a select 6 of them get to call that privilege their own.

In my previous life I wasn't a kid person and while I still wouldn't say I am, these 6 kids have wormed their way deep into my heart to a place of love I didn't know was possible. These kids are what keep me smiling day after day. Yeah they drive me crazy sometimes but they can be a lot of help and are always good entertainment. I think sometimes people have the visual in their head of African children as sad, hungry, sickly children from the "sponsor a child" commercials but this couldn't be further from the truth. These little smiles and constant giggles and laughter are enough to melt even the coldest of hearts. Yeah they are dirty and sticky but once you get to know them their personalities override any mishap in their appearance.

These kids are on my porch first thing in the morning and last thing in the evening. I find myself calling out for them by name like a bamaayo to give them something or ask a question. These kids are so patient with my horrible bemba and will wait 5 minutes, continually repeating a word for me while I attempt to look it up. They bombard me with requests from dawn to dusk and yet somehow I don't mind too much. I've taught them to say please when they want something and answer my "what's up" with a "not-y much." They help me with yard work and were an excellent demolition crew this past week when we had to remove an old fallen roof.  They all look about 2-3 years younger than they are due to poor nutrition but they are clever and inventive kids.

Porch Dwellers

 

Joshua pushing Calvin on the swing.

Roof Demolition

Teen with Calvin, Maggie, Joshua

Elvis is the oldest and is in 4th grade. He regularly teaches me new bemba words and relays messages to the others when he understands. He is a huge help and the only one who doesn't tire out in two minutes when we are doing a project.  He has learned to throw a Frisbee quite well. He's also become my expert photographer and can operate the camera and phone camera, which is quite a feat here. You would be surprised how many Zambians can't get a clear photo. He's always looking out for the other kids and has a heart of gold.

                                                                         Elvis

Joyce is next in line and though only in 1st grade she has a very mothering and playful spirit. She loves to dance and will often ask me to play my bemba music, while she circles her hips with adult like expertise song after song. She likes to test her boundaries often and I tell her no more than any of the other kids, but I applaud her for not giving up.

                                                                         Joyce

Calvin is not yet in school but he is a sharp kid and picks up on things quickly. He is so sweet and loves to high five and snuggle. He's very independent even at such a young age and can often be found caring for his younger sister, Maggie.

                                                                       Calvin

Joshua has the biggest toothless grin you will ever see and I'd challenge you not to smile when he flashes it. Probably the most photogenic of my kiddos, the lens loves him.  He is energetic yet very observant. He is sometimes the only one on my porch and can found just watching the world around him in silent awe and bliss.

                                                                 Teen and Joshua

Maggie was very shy at first but has warmed up to me and can be heard repeating "Ba Teeny" as she runs to the house with a grin on her face. She loves sweeties and never hesitates to ask for them even though she knows she's not supposed to. She loves to giggle and follow the older kids around.

                                                               Calvin and Maggie

Baby Beverly has just started walking and might be the only Zambian baby to not cry at my presence. Every time she passes by on her mother's back and isn't fast asleep I always receive a large grin and wave of her tiny hand. Sometimes she accompanies her older sister over to my house with the rest of the kids and watches them play from the shade of the porch.

These are my 6 porch dwellers as I fondly call them. My ewes, my kiddos, and definitely my buddies.  I built them a tree swing and taught them how to play war and throw a Frisbee. We sing, laugh, and dance together. When I come back from a trip I can almost always rely on their little feet carrying them as fast as they can down the path to greet me with hugs and carry any bag light enough. A sight that always warms my heart.

This morning I received news that the family comprising of Elvis, Joyce, Joshua, and Beverly are moving. The news crushed my spirit in a way completely unexpected. I've never really loved kids before so I couldn't explain the tears filling my eyes and the sorrow filling my heart. The thought of not having them around is almost overbearing. I spent the whole morning with tears constantly welling up as I tried to imagine life without their presence. Luckily, Calvin and Maggie will still be around but it won't be the same. Often times these kids make me forget I am in a foreign land and this coupled with the fact that some of my best adult friends in the village have moved away just serves to remind me of how lonely this place can really be.

The love these kids show me day in and day out is almost unconditional. Even if I'm having a bad day and am harsh with them they will be back first chance possible. I think Calvin sensed my sadness when I heard about the other kids leaving and with great intuition, that evening,  he gently gave me a kiss before saying goodnight and running off. Never before have I had a desire to want to know the love a child can give but these little guys have shown me what it really means to love with all your heart. I think the beauty of their ability to display love so freely lies in their innocence. They,  unlike adults, don't focus on the color of my skin but rather on who I am to them. I still don't want kids of my own right now but at least I feel like if it were to happen one day it might not be worst fate. And hopefully I can take a page from their book and love with a little more blind faith.